CU Rigging Notes

From CUGC Wiki

v.13/2020

Maintenance information is in the Equipment officer’s guide.

Warning: this is not a full rigging guide, do not rig CU if you have not been shown how to by somebody who knows how to rig CU. This guide is just to remind a trained person of some key points.
The ultimate reference is the current version of the flight manual which takes precedence over anything written in this guide. This guide is not meant to be a substitute for the flight manual. The flight manual is kept in the CU folder in one of the cupboards in the workshop.

Rigging CU is quite easy and two people who know what they are doing can rig in 20 minutes. However, ASW19s are at heightened risk of rigging related accidents due to their controls not being self connecting, so make sure you have rigged correctly. If in doubt check with someone who knows how to do it.

Converting to CU

Read through the CGC conversion notes and the ASW19b flight manual. You must obtain permission from the duty instructor and the CUGC committee before you can convert. Standard requirements are:

  1. At least 6 solos in a CGC Junior
  2. Demonstrate a fully held of landing in a slippery glider like the Perkoz
  3. Receive a full briefing

These can vary with the instructors discretion. Ideally you can convert to the CGC Pegase FVV first, which is very similar and permanently rigged.

Main points to consider from the CU conversion notes:

  • It is high performance and slippery. Speed control on approach is very important, especially with airbrakes that are less effective than on the 2 seaters and Junior.
  • Retractable undercarriage - don't forget to put it down!
  • Poor low speed aileron authority. This makes the aerotow ground run tricky, and is recommended to thermal above 50kts.

Pre-rigging notes

Some basic rules and things to be aware of:

  1. Never rig the glider unless you are 100% sure you know what you are doing. If you are unsure get help from an Instructor or somebody who is familiar with an ASW19.
  2. Don’t get distracted or interrupted during the rigging process, this is how you forget something.
  3. Alway do a full DI and positive control checks before taking the glider to the launch point.
  4. Always get a full briefing and read the flight manual before a conversion flight.
  5. 60% of accidents caused by disconnected elevators happen on ASW19 or 20s, double check the elevator connections before flying.

Parking the Trailer

CU lives in the western trailer park at GRL. As of Summer 2020, between LA and an older SHK glider. When parking, attach the hitch to the permanent ball in the parking location. Make sure the handbrake is left off. Lower the rear stabilisers until they take the tension.

If moving CU and the trailer in winter, take caution not to dig holes in the ground as these will be hard to fix in the summer. If unavoidable, fill in any ground damage immediately.

Rigging

You need at least 2 people to rig CU, but 3 is helpful if you are not feeling strong or the wind is high. CU's wings are particularly heavy, and holding the root might be a challenge if you are not confident. Feel free to ask anyone in the trailer park to help you rig, they should be happy to help, but the usual etiquette is that you will then help them with their wings. Don't take advantage of people!

Preparation

  1. Unlock trailer at both ends.
  2. Remove any boxes from the front of the trailer (these can get crushed when the lid opens).
  3. Open the trailer lid fully from the back.
  4. Remove trestles, ramp, ramp handles, etc. Be careful not to scratch the glider.
  5. Ensure the trailer is secured with the tow hitch attached to the permanent ball and the rear stabilisers taking the tension to stop it wobbling. This sets up the rear of the trailer at the correct height.
  6. Cover trailer corners and floor with carpet.
  7. Pull out the ramp, ensuring the pins engage in the slots at the end. Place the two securing bolts in the holes above these pins to stop the ramp popping out.
  8. Secure the ramp in the upright (raised) position using the red pin.
  9. Move wings out horizontally to the edge of the trailer to provide more fuselage clearance.
  10. Undo the strap that holds the tail down (this may not be attached when the trailer is parked).

Removing Fuselage

  1. Lift fuselage by the black strap around tail and slide it out of trailer until the belly dolly reaches the end of the ramp. Mind the top of the fin as you come out, and be careful not to trip over the ramp.
  2. Remove the strap though the fuselage, tennis balls and the tail strap. (Tennis balls might not be installed when the trailer is parked).
  3. Ensure the straps for the battery (behind your head when sitting in the glider) are clear of the space for the wing roots.

Connecting the starboard wing (right)

Recommended trestle locations.

Always rig with the right wing first (this has the fork). Person 1 is the person in charge of the rig.

  1. Person 2 lifts the wing tip and slides the wing out of trailer. Mind the wing on the pins on the fuselage and on the edge of the trailer.
  2. Once fully out, person 1 lifts the root and carries it clear of the trailer.
  3. Person 2 rotates the wing 90 degrees so it is perpendicular to the fuselage.
  4. When ready, both people rotate the wing so that it is flat, and ready to slide into the fuselage.
  5. Person 1 places spar in hole in fuselage. Make sure that the fuselage doesn’t wobble.
  6. Both slide the wing in. Make sure that the control rods slide into the holes and don’t catch on the fuselage. Person 1 may have to instruct person 2 on whether they need to move the wing forwards/backwards/up/down so that it slides in flush. Make sure the gap between the wing is uniform and about 3-5mm.
  7. Person 1 places a trestle just outboard of the silver slide on the wing, being careful not to put the trestle on the aileron. Person 2 can relax.

Connecting the port wing (left)

Repeat as for the starboard wing, except place the trestle at the tip. Check again that the wing/fuse gaps are even and haven't changed with the second wing going in. See picture for recommended trestle locations.

Inserting the main pins

The main pins in, but not rotated and latched into place.

Inserting the pins should be a quick an easy task taking less than a minute, if they are not going in the wings are not level and not aligned correctly. Do not blindly force the pins in; take a moment to step back and assess if its not easy. Make sure you give your wing tip holder a rest if it is taking a long time!

  1. Person 1 removes a pin from green bag (they are identical). This is stored on the seat cushion when the glider is de-rigged, or sometimes in the plastic box. Make sure they are greased; if not, then apply a little from the grease tub with the red lid in the plastic box.
  2. Look down the holes for the pins; you should be able to see if the holes line up or what needs doing to make them line up. Usually, person 2 on the port (left) wing needs to lift slightly.
  3. Person 1 gives instructions to person 2 whether to move the wing up/down/fwd/back. Keep checking that both wings are flush with the fuse.
  4. Put the starboard pin in first, all the way if you can.
  5. Repeat for the second pin.
  6. Rotate the pins so that handles meet at the bottom and lock them in place with the safety catch halfway between the pins.
  7. Person 2 can now relax.

Some people have success putting the first pin in half way, then getting the second pin in, and returning to the first. Do this if you are struggling. We also have a white machined plastic rigging aid in the green bag. You can put this in the holes and rotate it to attempt alignment.

Lower the wheel and remove from dolly

  1. Lower the main wheel using the lever in the cockpit. Take the opportunity to check the tyre and wheel brake condition.
  2. Lower the jack using the long bar; take the tension off the pin, pull the pin out, then gently lower the ramp either way as is convenient. Don't move the lever towards the wing unless you are sure it is clear.
  3. Gently push the glider backwards to be clear of the the belly dolly.

Connecting the tail plane

This step can be done before moving the glider off the dolly if required.

  1. Collect the tailplane bolt, allen key and wire tool from the green bag.
  2. Push the wing root dollies to the back of the trailer, out of the way.
  3. Person 1 & 2 stand in the trailer at each end of the tailplane, which is attached to the roof of the trailer.
  4. Person 2 (at the back of the trailer facing forwards) supports the tailplane.
  5. Person 1 (at the front facing backwards) pushes the handle on the roof mount to release the tail, making sure the tailplane doesn't drop.
  6. Remove the tailplane from the trailer and avoid scratching the glider or tripping over the ramp.
  7. Lower the tailplane onto the fin (putting the tailplane mount in the big square hole) and then push backwards firmly to lock in place.
  8. Use the metal wire to pull back the small metal loop on the top of the tail plane and place the bolt into the tailplane. Do the first few turns by hand to avoid cross threading, then tighten up with the allen key. Slot the wire lock into the closest bolt slot once it gets tight.
    Note that the metal loop is very fragile. If it gets damaged it will need cutting out of the tailplane, which is very expensive.
  9. Return the wire tool and allen key to the green bag.

Connecting the controls

This is a safety critical action and must be done correctly; check and double check control connections.
  1. Remove silver wing guards from each wing, careful not to bash the point where the aileron connectors are.
  2. Remove the fiberglass cover on the fuselage (you can use the same wire tool as is used for the elevator to open the flap).
  3. Trim the glider fully rearwards (nose up) to help with connecting the elevator.
  1. Connect each control by:
    1. Pulling down the collar
    2. Pushing the pin sideways through the rod
    3. Putting the socket over the ball
    4. Allowing pin to spring back
    5. Allowing collar to spring back
    6. Checking that pin cannot move fully when the collar is up
  2. The controls that need connecting are
    1. 1 x elevator (trim back before connecting)
    2. 2 x airbrakes (unlock air brakes by pulling the rods in)
    3. 2 x ailerons
  3. Ailerons and air brake controls can be accessed from the little panel behind the cockpit.
  4. Roll the connection around in your fingers and make sure it doesn't pop off when you gently pull it.
  5. Once controls are connected, close and lock the little panel. Make sure that the little panel is taped up securely with a wing tape, as the locking mechanism does not lock it fully.
Proper positive control checks are critical here.

Install total energy tube

The total energy tube is kept in the pocket in the cockpit.

  1. Slide it into the hole in the fuselage halfway between the wings and the tail, with the two holes facing backwards.
  2. Don’t push too far, the lip on the total energy tube should be flush with the glider, don’t push it any further or you will damage the glider
  3. If it is pushed too far the tube would be blocked and there will not be any reading on the vario

Install batteries and parachute

The batteries are stored in the back of the hangar and are marked CU. The parachute is in a black bag in the bottom of the main CGC 'chute cupboard. Make sure to DI it like you would any 'chute.

  1. Batteries go into the holders behind the pilot's head and are held in by straps. Make sure the batteries aren't loose.
  2. Plug battery wires into the connectors.

Over time the battery life declines. Inform the equipment officer if they are running out of juice early in the day.

Install Vertica (optional)

Vertica files are out of date (Sep 2019), you are advised to use XCSoar on your phone.
  1. Vertia flight computer is kept in the CUGC box below the parachute room
  2. Plug in the usb power cable
  3. Place into holder (bottom first) and it will click into place

Install glide computer (optional)

  1. Mount the glide computer using the RAM x-grip mount in the centre of the instrument panel
  2. Adjust the positioning by slightly loosen the two screw handles, make sure NO INSTRUMENT IS COVERED BY THE PHONE, then tighten the two screws again
  3. Plug in the usb power cable. In July 2020, a daisy chain of mini-USB, micro-USB and USB-C adaptors are available.

Wing tape

You should always tape up:

  1. The control connections access panel
  2. Base of the total energy tube

For improved performance you can also tape up:

  1. Gap between the wing and the fuselage x2
  2. Gap between the fin and the tailplane
  3. Over the tail plane bolt (avoid the little metal loop)

Ballast weights (as needed)

Fitted ballast weights.

Ballast weights are stored on the bottom shelf of the battery cupboard in the parachute room (next to the office).

  1. Check ballast requirements and remember the conversion between ballast weight and equivalent pilot weight (x2.5)
  2. Ballast weights go on a spindle in the nose
  3. To gain access to the spindle, sit on the left hand side of the glider and apply full left rudder. Remove the nut and washer from the spindle. Be careful not to lose these.
  4. You’ll need to add the ballast weights one by one. It is necessary to slightly close the canopy to slide each weight in.
  5. Carefully replace the washer and nut. Check the the rudder cable is clear of the stack of weights. Tighten the nut.

Daily inspection

New skid on CU.
ALWAYS PERFORM A DAILY INSPECTION AND POSITIVE CONTROL CHECK BEFORE FLYING THE GLIDER.

During daily inspections make sure that you check the condition of the glider’s skid. If the bottom foot is worn, the glider is U/S and skid needs replacing. Please see a picture of new skid for reference.

The skid has been replaced in Sep 2019. Dragging with the skid on the ground should be avoided if possible and use of the tail dolly is preferred. Dragging on tarmac/concrete should be avoided at all. Inspection of the condition of the skid should be done as frequently as possible to monitor the wear.

Check the glider has valid insurance and ARC during the DI. A copy of the insurance should be in the first page of the DI book, and the ARC behind the seat.

De-rig

In general, the de-rig is just the reverse of the rig, but here are some extra pointers:

Always wash the glider if it is at all dirty, especially the leading edges and underside of the fuselage. If the dirt/bugs are left, it takes much longer to clean than if they are cleaned off at the end of the day. Bucket and sponge are provided, and use the leather to dry.

  1. Prep the glider as much as you can before pulling it onto the dolly in front of the trailer, which can be potentially in the way of other people derigging. You can take the tape off, tailplane, batteries, parachute, TE probe etc all before you get to the trailer.
  2. Have the ramp in the lowered position with the big wheels on the trailer side of the ramp. Make sure the two pins are in place to secure the ramp (Don't lose these pins!).
  3. When bringing the fuselage onto the belly dolly, make sure you remove the tail dolly. The fuse' should be dragged onto the belly dolly so that the leading edge of the dolly is in line with the '9' or 'B' on the ASW 19B lettering on the side of the fuse. This means it will seat nicely in the trailer. This can be tricky. If it's being really stubborn, pull the fuse on further once the wings are removed. I usually get the aircraft lined up in front of the trailer, remove the tow out gear but leave the wing dolly then. I can then drag the glider forwards onto the dolly myself.
  4. Once on the dolly, put a trestle under one wing, raise the ramp with the lever and put the pin in to secure it. This can also be stubborn.
  5. Raise the main wheel.
  6. Make sure the trailer is ready with wing dollies at the end. Disconnect all the controls and tape, and put the silver wing guards back on the correct wings. Do this 'before' you ask for help.
  7. Take the left wing off first, as the exact reverse of the rig. The pin on the wing dolly goes into the spar hole closest to the wing root. Roll wing in gently, taking care to remain clear of the corner of the trailer (which should be covered in carpet) and the lugs on the fuse (which you could cover with tennis balls). The dolly will hit a physical stop at the front of the trailer. Initially, slide the wings fully outboard (to give more clearance when rolling in the fuse).
  8. Repeat with the right wing. Now the fuse goes in to trailer as the exact reverse of the rig.

Closing the trailer

Before attempting to close the trailer, check that:

  • Ramp is stowed and lowered (with wheels towards trailer front).
  • Wings are slid fully forwards and roughly outboard of the two metal catches on the trailer floor.
  • Carpet removed from trailer corners.
  • Tail skid is properly located in depression in base of trailer
  • Nothing in the front of the trailer will foul the lid when you close it
  • If parked at GRL, everything that’s going to be stored in the back goes into the trailer: trestles, wing-wheel, tail-dolly (placed carefully between wings and fuse); tow-bar and ramp lever (outboard of wings); ramp securing pins (in ramp channels). Make sure that the tow out gear and trestles are not higher than the top of the wings, or they will catch on the trailer roof when it is lowered.
  1. Lower the lid of the trailer carefully, stopping if you feel resistance. Check the wing tips go in the carpet slots in the lid.
  2. Put the big plastic box in the front of the trailer. Do this last so it isn't squashed when the lid comes down.
  3. Close and lock the back flap and the front door. The back flap can be tricky if not properly aligned.
  4. Check you haven't left anything laying around the trailer.

Towing the trailer / Preparation for XC

This is not a comprehensive guide, just some things to think about.

If you are going to go XC in CU, you must make sure the trailer is serviceable before you set off. It's worth finding out when a trailer was last driven. If more than a few months, take it for a spin to check it out if you are unsure of its road worthiness, you can use the club Hilux.

A standard check of the trailer includes:

  • Tyres: Have you checked their pressure? When were they last changed? Are they cracked?
  • Brakes: Does the handbrake work? Are the brakes adjusted correctly, ie do they apply as the trailer decelerates?
  • Electrics: This is a must. Do all the lights work? You have to test this.

If you are intending to tow CU, here are some things to think about:

  • Experience: Have you towed before? If not, then you definitely should practice around the airfield doing manoeuvres and some reversing in case you get stuck on the roads.
  • Car: Is it powerful enough? What is the weight relationship between car/trailer? Do you have electrics? Have you got a number plate to put on the trailer?
  • Licence: Do you need a towing licence? (Yes if the combo is over 3 tonnes)
  • Insurance: Are you insured for trailer towing? Is the glider insured on the road?

A checklist for if you, or someone else, has to tow the trailer:

  1. Is the glider secure? Tail strapped down, wings in dolly holders.
  2. No loose items. It's best to put all the bits in the tow car, but you can get away with some stuff in the front if it is properly secured.
  3. Make sure to bring all the tools/parachute/batteries/key you need.
  4. Make sure to raise the legs at the rear of the trailer.
  5. Attach the cars number plate to the rear of the trailer.

Soartronics BT connector

This is a device placed between the flarm and flarm display. It is essentially an serial connection to the flarm over the bluetooth. Once the flarm is powered on the device should be discoverable by bluetooth and should be paired to the mobile phone (PIN 1234 if prompted). With appropriate settings with the XCSoar, the following functions are supported:

  1. Flarm radar (display of the local traffic)
  2. Adjust flarm setting
  3. Declare task to the flarm IGC recorder before taking off
  4. GPS and barometric height (if your phone does not have a built-in GPS/barometer)

For more information please see:

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